How to Raise a Praying Mantis - Complete Guide

How to Raise a Praying Mantis - Complete Guide

Keeping praying mantis (order Mantodea) is a fascinating activity for entomology enthusiasts and insect lovers.

Here I present my complete guide, covering most of the knowledge needed to raise praying mantises. How to feed your praying mantis, how to set up a terrarium, how reproduction works, and more.
If you need anything, you can contact me on Instagram or Facebook .

1. Choose your praying mantis

There are many species of praying mantis, each with specific breeding requirements. We can (taking a very convenient shortcut, I admit 😁) divide all mantises into a few groups that are identifiable even by the layperson:

Hierodula, proHierodula, Sphodromantis, Rhombodera, Stagmatoptera : The top of the class: robust and easy to raise. These are very active and strong mantises, by far my favorites. They reproduce a lot, eat a lot, hunt a lot.... In short, you get the idea, they do everything better than the others and are perfect for beginners, in addition to being generally the largest in the kingdom (except for exceptions like the Mante diabolica).

Flower mantises: Creoboter gemmatus . Hymenopus Coronatus , Idolomantis Diabolica, Pseudocreoboter, Blepharopsis, "I'm so cute but prepare to suffer, quickly water me, I'm losing patience and I'll faint if my humidity drops from 80 to 79%."
We come to the somewhat more... difficult mantises. Although very popular because of their remarkable livery, they can be capricious and often require high humidity. Furthermore, in terms of behavior, these mantises are calmer and smaller.

Deroplatys Dessicata – Buy Dead Leaf Praying Mantis

Leaf mantises: These are all the mantises that look like a leaf and are specialized in camouflage, such as the Deroplatys desiccata or the Phyllocrania paradoxa. Overall, they are fairly easy mantises to raise, but unfortunately, they are naturally calm and shy. A Deroplatys Desiccata can stay in the same place for a week without any problem, for example. However, "before my eyes" (as the Chinese say), they are the most beautiful of all praying mantises. Their particularly "cold" and macabre appearance gives them an incomparable aura.

The "unicorns": I can't close this list without mentioning all the other, less common mantises. WARNING : You'll sometimes find these species available online, but you'll have to be very careful if you want to acquire one. Most of the time, the breeder will have very little information or perspective on it. This doesn't matter, but you're heading into the unknown with these mantises.
Here we will classify all the truly "rare" mantises, which are rarely seen, here for example the Toxodera Integrifolia. Here on this site you can notably find the glass mantis " Sinomantis Denticulata ". I cannot make any generalizations about this last category as it is very broad.
Why do we never see these mantises? Often because they're too complex to breed. A professional breeder (a cosmic supreme being) could do it, but ordinary mortals couldn't.

Do you see this little thing, uh, wonder? It probably doesn't mean anything to you, and yet it's a bit like the Holy Grail of the praying mantis breeder: The Idolomantis Diabolica. It requires around 30°C during the day BUT only 18°C at night and needs to live in a net, not in a closed terrarium. Its required humidity also varies according to its stage of growth, and will only reproduce under certain ultra-precise conditions and it costs a fortune. ANYWAY, good luck, you might as well go and get them in Tanzania, it's cheaper than raising them 🤹‍♀️

"Hi, I'm here to buy an Idolomantis Diabolica for 80 euros please."

"Of course, it's a minimum of 10 payable in advance, delivery in 2 months."

Matéo won't be getting his new scooter this Christmas, that's for sure.

Finally, I appeal to the elegance of the reader who will understand that it is impossible to deal with all the subspecies and that such a popularized general classification necessarily implies shortcuts.

2. Install a suitable terrarium

Here's an EXO Terra terrarium that many people have in their homes, often getting it from a friend who has reptiles. It's not suitable for insects due to the lack of side ventilation. But if you're on a budget, it'll do the trick, don't worry.

Choosing the right terrarium is crucial for the well-being of your praying mantises. Here are the criteria to follow:

Dimensions : a terrarium of 20x20x30 cm for an adult mantis is a good start. I designed and had this model made which is perfect and will fit all mantises. Note however that if you have a small mantis (like the Creoboter Gemmatus or Astyliasula Basinigra for example) you will have to "break up the space" of its terrarium. Indeed a small mantis will be stressed by a terrarium that is too large, it will feel vulnerable to predators. It will therefore be necessary to divide the space so that it can hide. Be careful however to leave it enough space to molt: It must have several really wide and especially high spots. Generally speaking I prefer not to overload terrariums with decoration to avoid molting errors which are 90% fatal.
Your praying mantis's terrarium must be elevated. In other words, it must be higher than it is wide. Width stresses the animal, while height reassures it and encourages its molting.

Ventilation : Good air circulation is essential to prevent mold growth. The terrarium we offer is pierced everywhere to avoid any risk, maximum ventilation. If you make your terrarium yourself, I recommend two side vents facing each other (see photo below) and one on the top. Also add as many small holes as possible over the entire surface of it. And yes, you guessed it, glass terrariums are not at all suitable.

Here's a single-use "breeding" terrarium. Less attractive and more fragile than the acrylic terrarium we sell, but much cheaper. You can see the vents and side and top mosquito nets. Also note that I'm only adding the bare minimum of support to minimize the risk of a failed molt. Here's a Rhombodera Latipronum, a brave mantis that doesn't mind being exposed.

Temperature : 22-30°C depending on the species, with a heater and thermometer/hygrometer if necessary. Our all-in-one packs offer these for safety.
The lower the temperature, the slower your mantis will "age." It will also be larger but less active. Conversely, an ideal temperature (often around 26°C) will accelerate the mantis's life; it will be smaller but more active and will die much faster.

Visibility: I'll keep this short because it hurts to write it: Ideally, your terrarium should only have one or two transparent sides. Praying mantises see extremely well, especially movement. The more useless signals they see (like your big head stuck to the glass of their terrarium), the more stressed they become. I know it's hard.

A charming little girl in illustration "We're almost there, eh? Are there still Kinder? For tomorrow morning at 7 a.m. I need a pink jersey for the school party. Can I have the tablet?"

Humidity : between 50 and 80%, variable depending on the species (adjust by spraying water, but not directly on the mantis). A parameter that is greatly underestimated by breeders. Poor humidity increases the risk of failed molts and therefore death of the insect in most cases.

Substrate : peat, paper towels, or vermiculite to maintain humidity. I recommend sand or "textured" coco soil. In fact, I prefer to put as little "living" material as possible in my terrariums to limit the risk of fungus and infection. A "dead" substrate, which we will call inert, is the most appropriate. Note that a praying mantis doesn't care about this; you can do what you want.
Why sand and coconut soil? Because they're soft substrates that can't get stuck in your praying mantis's captors. When your praying mantis hunts ground-based prey like red runner cockroaches, it could damage its captors by hitting a substrate that's too hard. Sometimes, it'll mistake the substrate it just hit for its prey and try to eat it. This happens a lot with coconut husk.

Decoration/landscape : PLASTIC branches and foliage, or at least sterile ones, to provide hanging surfaces. And ABOVE ALL, the mosquito net is ESSENTIAL so it can be hung almost anywhere. The more you use, the better.
A praying mantis can cling to anything, but it will be uncomfortable and tiring for it to climb on smooth plastic, for example. Maximize its comfort by providing it with mosquito netting and rough surfaces in abundance. Be careful! Many breeders use metal netting, which wears out and injures the hooks on your insects' legs. Choose a non-rotting, relatively soft plastic netting. Fabric netting is acceptable, but it can rot. Our homemade terrarium is equipped with custom-made plastic netting, as seen here:

3. Feeding praying mantises

Praying mantises are carnivorous predators that feed primarily on live insects. Below this link you'll find a detailed guide on feeding frequency. Here are the main prey they may consume:

Diptera (flies, mosquitoes)
Blatodea : Cockroaches or cockroaches.
Orthoptera (grasshoppers, house crickets)
Coleoptera (small ground beetles, mealworm larvae)
Hymenoptera (bees, wasps, bumblebees with caution)
Lepidoptera (caterpillars, small butterflies)

In my opinion, and to put it simply: You will first give fruit flies, then pinkie maggots and flies, and finally cockroaches. Everything is available in the store under this link.

Remember that praying mantises love flying prey and not all of them will agree to hunt crawling prey on the ground.

How do I know? Ask me 😁.

non-contractual illustration.

In any case, flies will always be accepted from L3/L4 except by tiny mantises.

The size of the prey must be adapted to that of the praying mantis to avoid any risk of injury. To get an idea, you can give it prey the same size as your praying mantis's captor or a little larger. Ask yourself, "Is it capable of holding this prey with its current captors?" If so, let's go. Don't worry too much about this parameter; with a minimum of common sense, the risk of injury is very low.

This amazing montage will help you understand the thing a little 😁

WARNING! Praying mantises drink, contrary to popular belief. Their diet isn't enough to keep them hydrated. Don't try too hard, though; your mantis will drink the drops from the sprays on the walls of its terrarium. But you can definitely pick it up and spray water at its feet. It will then drink from your hand—a great experience!

If you pick up a mantis and it brings its mandibles close to the palm of your hand (as if smelling it), it is thirsty most of the time. Don't be afraid and give it something to quench its thirst. Tap water will do, but spring water closer to rain is best.

Thirsty Hymenopus Coronatus on the hand of a homo sapiens rather well spoiled by nature, it must be admitted.

4. Growth and life cycle

The praying mantis goes through several larval stages before reaching the adult state ( imago ). The larval stages correspond to the famous L1/L2/L3 etc... L1 being its first state upon leaving the ootheca (in fact not exactly but remember it will be simpler 😁).

After hatching, the larvae undergo between 6 and 10 molts, depending on the species and sex. Since males mature more quickly than females, they often molt fewer times (who always does better? 😎). Growth depends on temperature and diet.

Key points of development:

Hatching : The larvae emerge from the ootheca (egg capsule) in large numbers. Approximately 10 to 20% of the larvae will die within the next few days. This is normal.

Successive molts : at each stage, the mantis grows and renews its exoskeleton (the exoskeleton corresponds to what the layman would call its "shell", Darwin is turning in his grave as I write these lines😱).

Here are the successive molts of a Phyllocrania paradoxa. If you order from me, your mantis will often be at the L3 or L4 stage. At this stage, it is strong enough to travel.

Sexual maturity : Reached after the final molt. You will easily recognize this stage: from this stage on, the praying mantis (both male and female) has large wings that cover its entire abdomen (its "posterior"). It will not change from this stage on. Its limbs will also no longer grow back if injured.

Here is a mature Sibylla Pretiosa (at the Imago stage). We can easily see its wings protruding from its abdomen.

This time, an immature Hymenopus Coronatus (around L4). As you can see, it has no wings. You can go back to the photo of the mantis drinking from my hand. It's the same one as here, but at the adult imago stage and therefore with its wings.

4.5. Light

Praying mantises need light to survive. This may seem obvious, but not all insects do. Cockroaches, for example, can go their entire lives without seeing the sun once.

Obviously you are tempted to put a superb neon sign right above your installation like we sometimes see on the networks:

Here's this nice guy who didn't ask anyone for anything is actually raising a bearded dragon. The image serves as an illustration of what not to do with a praying mantis (and also with a camera 😂)

Obviously, you've already figured out that shining a spotlight on your insects is a very bad idea. But why?

What are the main predators of praying mantises? Birds and bats. And where do they come from? From the sky. A praying mantis will always try to be invisible from the sky. It likes to be high up but not exposed to direct light.
Most lamps get hot, even a little. Your mantis can get close and get roasted. I love insects, but cognitively it's a bit limited 😁.
A spotlight TAXES. And yes, a lamp that runs 12 hours a day can quickly add up. So save your money to buy praying mantises from monsieurinsecte.fr and opt for an inexpensive lamp 🐱‍🏍

So what do we do?

A clean setup with a soft yellow light that runs 12 hours a day is ideal. 25W LED bulbs are the best choice in my opinion. They don't heat up, don't consume much, and they practically don't wear out. IKEA practically pays you to buy them; it's amazing how cheap they are (€1.79 a pair).

Natural light is acceptable, but direct sunlight should be avoided. It heats up the terrarium and encourages plant and animal parasitism.

Mantises, unlike reptiles and humans, don't need UV. The light simply serves to give them a day-night cycle. I find this extraordinary; technically, the mantis kingdom could thrive in a world without sunlight.

Here is a breeding ray from your humble servant. The light is soft and diffused.

5. Reproduction and laying

Praying mantis reproduction is famous for the phenomenon of sexual cannibalism. The female may sometimes devour the male after mating, although this is not always the case.

Conditions for reproduction:

Your mantises will be ready to mate two weeks after their last molt (imago, therefore presence of wings).

Prepare the female and male : Feed them well before mating by offering them both unlimited prey for 3 days before mating. The male will likely refuse to eat: this is normal.
Introduce the male carefully : preferably at night, placing him at a distance and monitoring their interaction. Don't stay above the terrarium, or you'll capture their attention and prevent mating. I don't know, put yourself in their shoes and imagine a spectator: "Come on, champ, that's it, go ahead! That's my boy!"
The ideal is to place it "on the backside" of the female. If both are mature, it should smell the female's pheromones and quickly go on the offensive by climbing onto her back and then sliding its reproductive appendage into the female's copulatory orifice.

The female mantid reproductive system is more complex than that of humans. Surprising, isn't it?

If the female turns violently towards the male, stop everything, she will attack him. Try again tomorrow.
To distract the female, constantly give her prey throughout the "approach phase." If you want to save your male at all costs, feed her until she refuses. Note: Perhaps out of superstition, but it always seemed to me that the oothecae were of better quality when the female devoured the male. Studies seem to confirm that cannibalism gives the female a boost of varied nutrients ideal for the upcoming spawning.
Mating often lasts several hours.
A single fertilization is enough for the entire life of a female who will store the male gametes (the male's sperm) in a spermatheca. It's a bit like a library 😁
Egg laying : The female lays one or more oothecae on a dry surface. Generally around 5 oothecae over a female's lifetime.

Here's a huge egg collection from my little protégé. It looks like a Cheetos, right?😁

Hatching occurs within a few weeks or months depending on the temperature. It takes between 1 and 3 months under good conditions.

6. Predators and diseases

Praying mantises are susceptible to certain parasites and diseases, including:

Fungal infections (promoted by excessive humidity). Hence the importance of maximizing ventilation in a terrarium and avoiding glass terrariums.
Internal parasites (nematodes, mites). Unlikely in livestock farming if your facility is clean and closed.
Nutritional deficiencies (deformities related to poor nutrition). Vary your diet and everything will be fine.

Don't worry about this parameter if you're raising them indoors, enclosed with sterile, artificial decorations, as I recommend. Note that using living things as decorations does absolutely nothing for the praying mantis.

7. Appendices

You don't give praying mantises honey when they're feeling unwell, it's a myth and a very bad idea.
Praying mantises don't particularly enjoy being handled by humans, but they can become accustomed to it. Again, "brave" mantises like the Hierodula will be less stressed.
Praying mantises are deaf. They can only hear a single, specific frequency, corresponding to the sound of their main predator. Their pseudo-ear is located between their abdomen and thorax.
Praying mantises don't see red light. This makes it easy to observe them at night without disturbing them.
Females can become somewhat aggressive toward humans during the spawning period (3 weeks after emergence). Note that this does not pose any danger.
Red runners are the best food for praying mantis. But they're also the most expensive, costing about three times the price of crickets.
Crickets can make praying mantises sick.
Large grasshoppers should be avoided, they are powerful insects that can kill your mantis.

"Do I look like someone who likes honey?"

Conclusion

Raising praying mantises is a rewarding experience that allows for up-close observation of the behavior of these fascinating arthropods. By respecting their habitat, temperature, and dietary requirements, it is possible to ensure their well-being while captive.

Breeding them is relatively simple if you know how to impose a minimum of discipline and seriousness on yourself. Most animals have a real resistance to beginner's mistakes. Trust yourself 😁